Cebu Bohol Tarsier Sanctuary, Philippines - RooWanders
Philippines,  Backpacking

Behold Bohol! Tips, Trips, and Tarsiers

Bohol, home of the chocolate hills and tarsiers, is a big island that could take days for the curious to roam and discover.

Before my week-long trip to Cebu, I had no idea that Bohol had that many activities to go for!

It was only during my stay in Nuts Huts, a peculiar accommodation situated in a secluded corner next to Loboc River, did I learnt how common it was for some travellers to spend days hopping around the different parts of Bohol!

While my stay in Bohol may be short – limited annual leaves! – I’m sure I’ll visit the island again someday when I have more time and freedom to island-hop in the Philippines.

So what’s there in Bohol? Let’s dig in!

I visited Bohol as part of my week-long trip around Cebu in April 2024. This post contains affiliate links that cost nothing to you but support my blog! It may also be updated periodically. Cheers!

Best Time to Visit Bohol

As written in my Cebu 101 Guide post, the best time to visit Cebu and Bohol is during the dry months of Jan to May, unless you do not mind the wetter, but slightly cooler, and possibly cheaper, months of Jun to Dec.

Jan to May are the dry months. I visited in April when there was no rain for the entire week! It was just hot and dusty closer to Tagbilaran City. Get proper sun protection or risk getting sunburnt.

Jun to Dec tends to be wetter with higher rainfall, but everything else remains pretty much the same.

For my bubble-blowing friends, if you’ve done diving in Malapascua as I’ve written, and are now finding your next destination to do another round of underwater investigation, you can do so in Bohol, all year round!


Getting to Bohol

Flight

Bohol has an international airport (TAG) in Panglao that was opened just a couple of years before the pandemic in 2018.

While it is mentioned as an international airport, the only international flights into this new airport are still limited to flights from Korea.

Domestic flights include destinations like Manila and Davao.

Unless travelling directly from Korea or transiting from Manila, most travellers would have picked the ferry ride from Cebu City as their mode of transport.

Check for the best flights through Skyscanner or book with me via 12Go.


Ferry

As the 10th largest island of the Philippines sandwiched between other bigger islands, Bohol has several ports around its perimeter.

You could travel via ferry from Cebu, Negros, Siquijor, and Mindanao.

However, international tourists with limited vacation days, like me, would usually visit Bohol as a side trip from Cebu. That makes the ferry between Cebu City Pier 1 and Tagbilaran Port a popular route for most travellers.


From Cebu

Since Bohol is part of my week-long itinerary in Cebu, we took the conventional ferry from Cebu City Pier 1 to Tagbilaran Port. This section will be a ✨detailed✨ overview of my experience.

Buying the ticket

You have to buy your tickets before entering the pier, either physically at the ticketing counter beside the entrance to the pier, or online.

Having suffered the long and hot snaking queue to get our tickets, I’d recommend buying them online instead. Cost-wise, there’s not much difference between buying online and queueing for one physically. One thing is for sure: the confidence that there’s already a seat waiting for you by booking in advance. It costs P800 each in April 2024 for either the outdoor seats at the top level or the indoor aircon seats. Have your passport ready!

The journey from Pier 1 to Tagbilaran takes about 2 hours.

There’s a ferry running between Cebu and Tagbilaran pretty much every one to two hours, every day, from 6 AM to 5.40 PM.

If anything, try to snatch the morning ferry, as afternoon ferries tend to be delayed, compounded by the delays of earlier ferries. Our afternoon ride was delayed by almost an hour!

Terminal Fee & Scans

It’s not enough with just the ticket.

After passing through the security check, we had to pay another P25 per person for the terminal fee. It costs P30 on the way back from Tagbilaran. A guard checked our slips of paper before letting us through.

We thought that was over, but it wasn’t.

Another guard told us to check in at another counter adjacent to the crowded waiting area. This counter is where you check in luggage or big bags. Bags that the staff thinks are too big have to be checked in.

A piece of advice: try to travel light as it’ll take another long while, and a bit of chaos before you see your luggage again at Bohol or when back in Cebu.

Waiting Area

The waiting area is relatively large, but Pier 1 has many gates to other destinations like Siquijor, or to the same places but by different operators.

Feeling hungry? You could grab hot dogs, bread, or fruit juices from the stalls in the waiting area. A cafe sits on the second floor.

Ferry

We have tried both indoor and outdoor seating. Aircon still wins hands down, never mind the lingering smell of ammonia from the toilets.

Seats from both settings are small even for a petite Asian like myself. Spend a little more and go with the business class if you want more comfort and legroom since the journey is two hours!

Our ride to, and later back from, Cebu was smooth. I didn’t feel particularly seasick. Then again, this is dependent on the weather conditions.

At Tagbilaran Port

The exit was quick and efficient once the ferry door opened if you did not have any check-in luggage! Be prepared for the eager taxi drivers and motor renters touting their services as you leave the port.

Other ports of Bohol

Tagbilaran Port is just one of the many ports in Bohol. It’s next to Panglao with its attractions, an airport, and at the most populous part of Bohol. With that, you have the convenience of hailing a ride – Grab works within Tagbilaran, Panglao and Dauis! – to your next destination, rent a good motor, or find delicious food. You could also find transport to the other end of Bohol, such as Anda.

There are less popular ports in Bohol serving ferries from Cebu, such as Tubigon in the northwestern part of Bohol, and Getafe in the north. But as these two ports are not as popular as Tagbilaran, frequencies are sparse, and you might find it challenging to get out of the area.


From Siquijor

The little island paradise beneath Bohol has direct ferries to Tagbilaran – from Larena Pier or Siquijor Pier. The journey takes about 2 – 2.5 hours.


From Dumaguete

Have enough of the Negros? Hop over to Bohol from Dumaguete Port. The journey should take around 2 hours as well.


From Camiguin

Camiguin is another small island in the Bohol Sea with volcanoes, waterfalls, and beaches. You could travel to and fro Bohol from Camiguin via a 4-hour ferry ride.

The port in Bohol for Camiguin is Jagna, located southeast of Bohol.


From Mindanao

Jagna and Tagbilaran ports have direct ferry services to Mindanao at Cagayan de Oro Port. But this will be a long journey – 7 hours on a ferry!


Travelling within Bohol

You can walk within Panglao, but to get to other notable attractions scattered around Bohol, you’d need to either rent or get by with some form of transport.

Motor

For us, we rented a motor upon exiting Tagbilaran City Port and travelled about an hour to our unique native huts accoms somewhere near Loboc (more about this below!✨). We fully utilised the motor to cover the must-go in Bohol the following day, returning the motor the following morning at Tagbilaran to catch the ferry back to Cebu City.

Ride Hailing

Not everyone wants to or knows how to ride a motor. It is hot, dusty and not that comfortable sitting on a motor, compared to the aircon comfort of a sedan.

If that’s you, staying in Panglao is the easiest upon reaching the port. Ride-hailing services like Grab still serve this area.

Private Charter

If a group of you are travelling together, consider hiring a private chauffeur to cover the attractions the following day.

Join In Tour

If only a couple or just you are travelling, and you want to save money, find a join-in tour that covers the main sights in Bohol! Some tours cover the Panglao region only, like this one that visits not just a cave and the beaches, to name a few, but has lunch on a farm.


Attractions & Activities in Bohol 

I’ve created two subsections here: Those Must Go, and the Could Consider.

Must Gos are, as the name implies, attractions you have to visit if you are short on time. All day tours in Bohol have these in their itinerary.

Could Considers are only if you have additional time. There are several on the list I wouldn’t do since they are not to my interest, like the adventure park and river cruise.

Must Go

Search for chocolate at the Chocolate Hills

Why is the strange cluster of over 1260 hills in Bohol called Chocolate Hills?

Well, when the weather turns hot, the green grass turns brown, and the symmetrical mounds look like chocolates in a box.

The unique geological formation of the perfect conical hills is Mother Nature’s laborious effort on the land’s abundance of limestones.

The site was once a thick submerged piece of coral reefs, similar to what you see in the seas of Bohol. These reefs then died millions of years ago and became limestone.

As the tectonic plates shifted, the limestone platform surfaced and became land. Elemental erosion, mainly the work of rainwater and the river from the rain, sculpted the limestone into the present landscape we are seeing now – cone-shaped mounds.

The Chocolate Hills cover an extensive area. We saw them on both sides of the road as we travelled on Loay Interior Road towards the Chocolate Hills Complex. You could probably view them for free at the vantage point by hiking up one of them. But for the best sights with the least effort, we went for the paid attraction.

It costs P100 per person to visit the complex, which includes a shuttle from the carpark to the viewing complex. Walk up another long flight of steps to reach the top of the tallest hill in the vicinity for that bird’s eye view of chocolate hills.

The best shots of chocolate hills are undoubtedly taken aerially using a drone. However, drone use is not permitted within the complex.

Buffer about an hour for the Chocolate Hills.


Check out the alien-like Tarsiers

Tarsiers are the second smallest primate, after a mouse lemur species, and one of the oldest primates on the planet!

These cute little nocturnal mammals have frog-like paws with sticky pads at the end; big googling eyes that cannot rotate like ours but necks that can turn 180° both sides like the owl’s; and a long scaly tail like a rat.

The first thought that came to my mind when I first saw a tarsier was how much it resembles a baby Yoda! Maybe this is the animal that inspired the Yoda!

There are two places to see these rare Pokemon, but only one houses them respectfully. Go with the one with the word sanctuary mentioned in their name. The other park is more like a zoo, and from what I heard, cages their tarsiers.

The ticket costs P150 per pax for the sanctuary.

We watched a short documentary before a guide led us into the forest where the tarsiers were. Tarsiers are nocturnal creatures, so silence is golden for this visit. 

Unfortunately, not all patrons would comply, either due to excitement, or a lack of awareness. Also, be doubly sure your phone doesn’t have clicking sounds or flash when you’re taking photos! The guides have seen these animals for the longest time and know their usual sleeping spots and best shots. Rather than taking the photos or videos yourself, and in turn, awaken the tarsiers, have the experts do it.

We spotted four sleeping/half-asleep/awakened tarsiers within 10 – 15 minutes before being led out of the park.


Swing your way to the Hanging Bridges

The Sevilla Twin Hanging Bridges is another famous attraction of Bohol. These hanging bridges used to be made with bamboo and ropes, but a recent Super Typhoon Odette of 2021 ripped them off.

The bridges have now been fully restored since 2023. While steel cables have replaced the original rope, the creaking, swaying, and wobbling remains. There’s nothing particularly interesting on the other side of the bridge, aside from souvenir stalls. It costs P50 per person to cross the slippery bamboo.


Chill at the Man-made Forest

We passed by a stretch of cool shade as we travelled from our hut to the Chocolate Hills and then to the tarsier sanctuary. 

Pretty much everywhere we went on the motor during our week-long Cebu trip was hot and dusty.

But all that changed when we cruised through the Bohol Mahogany Forest, more popularly known as the Bilar Man-Made Forest.

When I first heard of this attraction in Bohol, I sniggered. How is a man-made forest even an attraction?

You’d know when you’ve reached Bohol during the dry season. Anything under the sun feels like it’s burning. But the temperature noticeably dipped when we entered the forest. It actually makes for a nice respite or even a picnic.

The cluster of aesthetic trees stretching more than 2 km on either side of the road between Bilar and Loboc is part of the government’s effort to reverse deforestation and erosion.


Could Consider

Meander down the river on a Loboc River Cruise

Enjoy a relaxing cruise down Loboc River with a delectable buffet of local fares and native singing and dancing performances.

This is a family-friendly activity for the young and old and a great respite from the menacing afternoon sun as the cruise snakes down the river.

Book your tickets online in advance if you’re going DIY since most organised tour groups have this as their lunch activity.


Marvel at the little fireflies

Haven’t had the chance to see fireflies?

You could now do that in Bohol.

There are two places to enjoy their company in Bohol – at the Loay area along the Loboc River, and Abatan River, about 6 km north of Tagbilaran.

Fireflies are most active during moonless still nights. Or maybe it is only during a moonless night can you then see the tiny little flying bulbs.

You could either pre-arrange in advance with the operators there and travel to those places yourself, or go with a tour that has a guide and a dinner thrown into the mix.

Why not add a little more fun to the conventional boat ride with a kayak through the mangroves and view the fireflies with kayakasia? Judging from the reviews, I’d gone with this one.

How about standup paddling down the Loboc River for the fireflies? 🤩


Explore the underwater world

Bohol is another great place for scuba diving, with most dive shops situated in the Panglao area.

PADI recorded 41 listed dive sites, with most situated around Panglao, which is near Tagbilaran City and hence the port, and Anda, on the east of Bohol.

Some notable dive sites of Panglao include the nearby islands of Cabilao IslandBalicasag Island (for turtles), and Pamilacan Island (might spot dolphins and whale sharks), and interesting sites like Arco Point (a hole in the wall).

Getting to Anda will be a little tricky since Bohol is big! It takes almost 3 hours, or 108 km to reach Anda from Tagbilaran City Tourist Port. You could either get a private car charter to pick you up from the port or have it arranged with your accommodation in Anda.

Don’t know how to scuba dive but want to try? There’s a solution for that.

Island hop around Bohol

For those not so keen on scuba diving, but want to visit the little islands scattered around Bohol, rent a boat, or book a tour to bring you there!

The seas within this area have dolphins to boot! You could snorkel and take a glimpse into the underwater world of the Bohol Sea, perhaps even encountering a turtle or two. Check out this tour that visits Balicasag Island and the famous sand bar of Virgin Island with excellent reviews at an affordable price!


Swim in Hinagdanan Cave

Hinagdanan Cave, located on the north of Panglao, is a 100 m wide grotto. A narrow entrance leads into the belly of the cave where a deep glistering pool awaits.

It was said that a farmer accidentally discovered the cave while clearing his land. He then built a ladder into the grotto to enjoy the cool waters.

However, given the location of Hinagdanan Cave – in Panglao – and its convenience to reach there, expect crowds. The entrance fee is P50. Swimming in the cave costs another P75.


Experience an adrenaline rush at Danao Adventure Park

Danao Adventure Park, located north of Bohol Island, is a place for thrill seekers. The park has activities like riding bikes or a giant hamster wheel on a zipline, a giant swing, and the Philippines’ longest zipline – the ‘sui-slide’.

I’m not so much into amusement parks so this didn’t appeal to me. But if it’s something you’d enjoy, by all means, go for it!


Hunt for waterfalls

Bohol Island has several beautiful waterfalls to boot. To visit all would require days. Some of the best cascades include Pahangog FallsKawasan Falls, and Camugao Falls

Aside from getting there via a scooter, you could hire a private charter or join this tour that brings you to Pahangog and two other falls around that region.


Scoot through the rice plantations

If you’re in for an adventure, take a loop motor road trip along the roads between Jagna, Poblacion, Alicia, and Tangohay. The region between these four towns, according to the host of my accommodation, has beautiful rice terraces, though the roads can be mountainous.

Alternatively, you could just travel to Cadapdapan Rice Terraces, also within the region, for the best views. 


Places to eat in Bohol

There are eateries in Panglao and Tagbilaran that the tourists group frequent.

When in Bohol, an island, savour their seafood!

For our week-long trip in Cebu, we usually do away with breakfast or have snacks or meals on the go during transit days.

While in Bohol, we stayed at Nuts Huts in a secluded spot not easily accessible from the main road. They serve delicious meals, and we shared a breakfast featuring muesli in their homemade yoghurt (P210), and a dinner with them for our entire duration in Bohol – beef noodle soup (P170), calamansi chicken with brown rice (P240), and a refreshing strawberry sauce salad (P180). They served interesting cocktails (P160 each) and had a 2-for-1 happy hours promotion before 6 PM. 

As we came down from the Chocolate Hills, we stopped by Turk’z Restaurant for lunch and discovered their very affordable lunch promo. For P150 each, we had a main meal, a drink, and a popsicle. I had grilled tuna panga, while my partner had chicken inasal pangal. The drink was cucumber-flavoured syrup water. Overall it was a pleasant and delicious lunch. You can read my partner’s detailed review here.

We also had dinner at Jose’s Tagbilaran, just to try the seafood in Bohol. Their half fisherman catch at P800 was genuinely a fisherman’s catch of an assortment of different-sized crustaceans and shellfish. We added Nilaw-Oy – a vegetable soup – for P180 to up our veggie intake, and shared a serving of rice (P20).


Accommodations in Bohol

As mentioned in my earlier post, we chose to stay in native bamboo huts for the experience and novelty, even though they do not have aircon. Mind you, the weather was hot in April, but we survived!

While in Malapascua, we stayed in a hut within the Tribal Hut Community. That hut was, by far, the most beautiful and comfortable hut we had during our week-long travels in Cebu.

For Bohol, we chose to stay in Nuts Huts without realising how difficult it was to reach the accommodation. First, we had to travel an hour from Tagbilaran to Loboc, turning into a smaller road near the Chicken Intestine Road – named because it was a deep hairpin road. The smaller road, however, was unpaved. It took us lots of shaking, praying and manoeuvring for the next 800 m on the small motor, passing through a village along the way, before we reached the parking space of Nuts Huts.

Think that’s over? No.

That’s followed by another 277 steps descent to the reception/ accommodation.

But what we do get is tranquillity, and being out in nature, facing the beautiful Loboc River. The staff was wonderful, and we had a great chat with the Belgian host.

If you do want a full nature retreat, this is the place to be!


In Panglao

For budget solos, there are plenty of affordable backpackers in Panglao. Check out Riu del Mar Hostel – they have female dorms! Best of all, they provide delicious breakfasts, and the hostel had excellent reviews! Peaceland Hostel has cost-effective single rooms for solos who want more privacy. Izla Soanna is another great contender. 

Couples on a budget, have a look at the Riu del Mar Hostel double room, which has a balcony! Or the Blue Summer Suites – a great option for big groups too.

If you want to pamper yourself, Anlio Resort is one good choice with clean and stylish rooms. Modala Beach Resort is one of the top premium resorts in Panglao. It has beautiful and spacious rooms and a good selection of breakfast.


In Anda

Anda in the east features beautiful beaches and fewer crowds than Panglao. They have excellent dive spots!

1peace Beach Resort has a range of accommodations for all – hostel, budget rooms, and luxury sea-facing bungalows. Best of all, it’s right off the beach to kickstart your beach adventure or just enjoy the sunset.

If you like to be immersed in nature and hammock the lazy afternoon away, check out the cute-sounding Three Little Birds Resort.

If you’d like to stay somewhere beautiful with your special other, hop over to Casa Amihan. It is a charming property with lovely rooms, relaxing scenery and direct access to the beach.


In Loboc

Want to relax by the teal-blue Loboc River? Then check out the stunning rooms of Loboc River Resort! You could sip tea while soaking in a bathtub, surrounded by lush greenery.


Interesting Mentions

If the location does not matter and it is an experience you seek, here are some selections for your perusal. Arrange for transport with the property, or rent a motor and DIY as their locations are not easily accessible.

Marquis Garden Eco-cottages is, as their name mentions, an eco-friendly choice with eco toilets. But past patrons have commented on their secludedness, peaceful pool, and delicious food. Someone even saw fireflies at night!

Thinking of glamping? Eco Glamping Treehouse could solve that. You’d stay in a cosy bubble fitted with aircon, and BBQ food on demand when you’re famished after a cool soak in their welcoming pool.

Lhoyjean Garden Hostel has singular bamboo houses for the adventurous, somewhat similar to Nuts Huts, with excellent reviews. We shortlisted this lodging, but couldn’t go for it as it was fully booked.

Finally, are you a solo free bird looking for new friends and a frilless hostel? Then you may find Bohol Hammock Hostel enticing. As one patron puts it, a little piece of heaven surrounded by coconut trees in the middle of Bohol.


Travel beyond Bohol

Get back to Cebu City to travel to other parts of Cebu Island.

Travel north from Cebu City to Malapascua for their rare thresher sharks and beautiful secluded white beaches. We had a wild time scuba diving and spectating three thresher sharks!

Travel south from Cebu City to Moalboal for their sardines, more scuba diving and get your adrenaline fix canyoneering at the Kawasan Falls. Moalboal – the part where tourists go – is a chic place with vegan eateries, Korean BBQs and chic cafes by the beach. You could actually squeeze the sardine run and canyoneering into one long day from Cebu City with this tour if the time is short.

Catch a ferry from Bohol to enchanting Siquijor Island – home of spectacular waterfalls, caves, and more snorkelling or diving.

Or you could take the ferry over to other bigger adjacent islands of Cebu like Leyte and Negros Island.

Cebu has another tourist attraction in Oslob, south of Cebu City, famous for swimming with whale sharks. However, this attraction remains controversial as the whale sharks were lured to be there by food.


Our Expenses

We spent P4710 per person for our short Bohol trip, including the ferry to get there and return from Cebu City – P800 one way per person.

Transport takes the lion’s share this time – P1240 per person, which includes motor rental shared by two and petrol. Renting a motor costs P400 per day, and we rented for two days.

We indulged a little in Bohol and enjoyed cocktails and seafood.

Accommodation in Nuts Huts for two is a very affordable P990 for two nights.

Finally, we’ve only paid for tickets in two areas: Chocolate Hills (P100), and the Tarsier Sanctuary (P150).


Conclusion/ Rambles

Bohol is humongous, and there are a lot of activities to do. Let me be honest: a full day like mine is only sufficient to cover the main attractions of Chocolate Hills, tarsiers, and some in-betweens.

If I had more time, I could hop around and discover the other lesser-known attractions in Bohol with my partner and our motor. We might check out their waterfalls, eat fresh oysters from a farm so far north of Bohol, and visit the other smaller islands around it, maybe even do a few dives in Balicasag Island and Anda.

What’s next after our short trip to Bohol? Onwards to Moalboal!

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