A Day in Hue: Best To-Dos Vietnam
Hue, the former imperial capital of Vietnam during the Nguyen Dynasty, is home to impressive tombs, temples, and delicious cuisine.
Travel back in time with me in my short escapade to Hue as we visit its major attractions and sample some of its tasty food. Visiting Hue is part of my two-week trip in Vietnam from Hanoi to Danang, with the highlight being a multi-day trip into the world’s biggest cave, Hang Son Doong.
I visited Hue in Aug 2023. This post may be updated periodically. Post also contains affiliate links that cost nothing to you but support my blog. Cheers!
History of Hue
Hue, located in central Vietnam, is a city steeped in history and culture. Once the imperial capital of the Nguyen Dynasty from 1802 to 1945, the city holds a significant place in Vietnam’s history.
Hue’s roots can be traced back to the early 17th century when Nguyen Hoang, a nobleman, established the Nguyen Lords, an influential ruling family. In 1802, Nguyen Phuc Anh declared himself Emperor Gia Long and established the Nguyen Dynasty, with Hue as its capital. During this time, Hue flourished as the political, cultural, and religious centre of Vietnam.
However, Hue’s history is also marked by various wars and conflicts, notably the Vietnam War. It suffered significant damages, but many of its historical sites survived and were later recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One of the most iconic landmarks is the Hue Imperial Citadel, a complex with impressive palaces, temples, and gates showcasing the grandeur of Vietnamese imperial architecture.
Today, Hue stands as a testament to the country’s rich heritage, with its ancient pagodas, royal tombs, and the picturesque Perfume River adding to its charm. Visitors can explore Hue’s historical sites, experience traditional Vietnamese cuisine, and witness the enduring legacy of this once-mighty imperial capital.
Best Time to Visit Hue
Being in Central Vietnam, the best time to visit Hue is during the dry season of March to August.
The wet season of September to February might give a little respite in temperature – a cool 18 dC in the evenings. However, you risk your holiday being ruined by heavy downpours or even floods, especially between September and November. Central Vietnam suffered one of the worst floods in years in Oct 2020 due to the monsoon and tropical cyclones.
Travelling to the Ancient Capital
As with travelling to other major towns or cities in Vietnam, you have daily buses and trains to and from Hue.
Train
The Reunification Express Railway passes through Hue. If you’re travelling from Hanoi to Hue, it’ll take 14 hours. If travelling from Ho Chi Minh City, buffer at least 20 hours. The cost starts from 500k dong for a one-way ride. Buy your tickets in advance from 12Go.
New to train rides in Vietnam? Read this to know what to expect - I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the sleeper train experience from Hanoi to Dong Hoi.
Bus
There are long bus rides from both metropolises to Hue – but why would you do that? I’d rather take a 20-hour train ride than a 22-hour bus ride. At least I could still walk down the corridor or aisle and not worry about the speeding bus.
Bus rides are comfortable for shorter journeys such as from Phong Nha – the adventure town of Vietnam! – to Hue, or Danang/ Hoi An to Hue. The journey takes 2 – 3 hours and costs 180 – 250k dong.
Flight
Despite its size, Hue has an international airport – Phu Bai International Airport – located south of the central city. However, international flights are limited to Kunming, China, or Luang Prabang in Laos. Most flights are primarily domestic from Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. You could look up the most affordable flights from wherever you are with Skyscanner.
Phu Bai Airport is about 15 km – or about a 30-minute ride by car – away from central Hue.
Travelling within Hue
We walk everywhere within Hue.
If you do not like walking, Grab works here too, given Hue’s status as a tourist attraction. Be reminded, however, that travels to the outskirts for the royal tombs might be slightly more expensive. You may also have difficulty sourcing for a Grab back to the city.
There are also cyclos/ trishaws around the city that can bring you to your destination. Remember to negotiate before using their services.
Things To Do in Hue
We signed up for a guided tour from klook, which brought us to several locations at a reasonable price for a comfortable pace, including lunch. Visiting the site yourself is very doable and might even be cheaper if you’re renting a bike or chartering a private car to travel to the tombs on the outskirts.
However, the downside to all these is you may not fully know or appreciate what you’re seeing, and the traffic and weather really aren’t the most comfortable.
Visit Thien Mu Pagoda
The first agenda on our full-day trip was Thien Mu Pagoda by the Perfume River. Also known as Linh Mu Pagoda, Hue’s oldest pagoda was built in 1601 following an interesting legend.
An old lady who frequented the hill where the pagoda is foretold the villagers that a pagoda would be erected on that very spot for the city’s prosperity, somewhat like attracting good feng shui. Strangely, a Lord appeared soon after and followed her plans upon hearing the story. He then named the pagoda Thien Mu, or Heavenly Lady, in honour of the old lady.
As luck would have it, the striking seven-tiered 21m tall pagoda survived all calamity and is regarded as the unofficial icon of Hue.
Other noteworthy or feng-shui-worthy structures include a stela set on the back of a large marble turtle, and a massive bronze bell, said to be the greatest achievement of bronze casting back in those days.
As Thien Mu Pagoda is known as the capital of Buddhism in Vietnam, it also stores the blue car driven by monk Thich Quang Duc. The monk self-immolated on a street in Saigon in 1963 as an act of protest against the persecution of Buddhists by the South Vietnamese government. The car was later moved to Hue for better protection.
Visiting the pagoda is free; it is open daily from 8 AM to 5 PM. You could travel by the banks of the river via a car or grab a boat on the river to reach the pagoda, which was what our tour did to travel to our next destination – The Hue Imperial Citadel.
Cruise over the Perfume River
One ancient scholar once remarked that a trip to Hue isn’t complete without a boat excursion on the gentle and aromatic Perfume River. Several artists and poets since a bygone age had penned or painted their thoughts inspired by the river. This love song by Duy Khanh is one fine example.
It might have been the weather, the climate, or the time of my visit, but I felt no peace or detected any fragrant aroma. The late morning August sun was too hot, the water too bright from the sun’s rays, and the humidity and hums of the boat made me irritable.
If time were to revert and I became that scholar of the 1600s, I could imagine sniffing the alluring scent of Autumn’s blossom and marvelling at the seven-tiered Thien Mu Pagoda from afar with the setting sun as the backdrop. No tall buildings, noisy boats, or a modern brick bridge. Just a plain old boat sailing idly down the river.
Explore Hue Imperial Citadel
The fortress/ palace of ancient Hue was the capital city of the Nguyen Dynasty for 140 years, from 1805 to 1945. Gia Long, the Emperor who founded the dynasty, sowed the seeds to have the palace built. His son – Emperor Minh Mang – saw its completion in 1832.
The massive complex was a remarkable feat back then. As with other major sites, the palace suffered blows during the Vietnam War. UNESCO World Heritage recognised the citadel in 1993. Since then, the complex has been actively undergoing restoration from the effects of war and elemental erosion. Some of the structures were under scaffolds when we visited.
A moat surrounds the grand complex that houses numerous temples, pavilions and residences. Half of the complex was open for the administrative force, while the other half was off from the public – mainly the men – entry as it houses the Emperor’s residence.
Entry to Hue Imperial Citadel costs 200k dong. If you’re planning to visit two other royal tombs on the outskirts of Hue on top of the citadel, go for the combo pack of 420k dong. And if you’re planning to visit all three tombs, the combo pack costs 530k dong. Get an audio guide for another 100k dong to fully utilise your trip! Dedicate 2 – 3 hours. The citadel is open every day from 8 AM to 5 PM.
Shop in Dong Ba Market
Have fun getting lost in the oldest and largest market in Hue! I positively meant this as there are loads of sights and scents to take in in this maze of a market. Shopping in an Asian market is always interesting.
Located by the banks of the Perfume River, Dong Ba Market is where the locals do their groceries or shop for clothes or bags. You could grab a drink, a dessert or your lunch in the market and people-watch.
If it’s shopping you’re after, make sure you time your visit in the lull hours after 11 AM. Or be inundated by the grocery shopping crowd who are there to shop for the freshest produce for that day’s meals. The afternoon may be busy too, when locals head in for lunch.
Remember to haggle!
Marvel at the Royal Tombs
The Nguyen Empire had thirteen Emperors and seven tombs housing the remains of nine of those Emperors. Of which, the most widely visited tombs are those of Minh Mang, the second king, Tu Duc, the fourth king, and Khai Dinh, the father of the last king.
Emperor Minh Mang Tomb
Emperor Minh Mang, the son of the first king of the Nguyen Empire, was said to have built his tomb 7 years after his enthronement. The complex was carefully constructed with good feng shui in mind and a strong focus on symmetry.
Within the complex are three gates on the main or holy axis and several other pavilions and temples scattered on both sides of the axis. Emperor Minh Mang’s tomb was carved from a forested part of a hill with artificial lakes dug out to support the feng shui harmony. You need a mountain and water for extra auspiciousness.
At the end of the complex is a circular gated wall where his body was supposedly. However, according to our guide, one cannot be sure if the Emperor’s body is truly there after so many years and unrest. The tall trees surrounding the greyish walls after a long walk over the calm lake do add to the peace or eeriness, depending on how you see it.
We also learned that this so-called tomb was supposed to be his retirement home. But as he died before the place was completed, and it became his everlasting tomb instead.
Take special notice of the frangipani trees around the main pavilion – Minh Lau Pavilion. They were supposedly chosen for their sparse leaves so no assassin could hide in the trees.
Getting there is a pain if you are not licensed to ride a motorbike. You may Grab the 12 km to the tomb. But finding another Grab to get back is another foreseeable challenge. Or take the boat and travel upstream via the Perfume River to the tomb.
The tomb is open every day from 8AM to 5 PM. The ticket cost 150k dong.
Emperor Tu Duc Tomb
We did not visit the tomb of Emperor Tu Duc on our tour due to the lack of time. However, it is possible to visit all three tombs within a day, including the citadel, if you do it yourself or hire a private chauffeur.
Emperor Tu Duc, the fourth king of the Nguyen Dynasty, was the grandson of Emperor Minh Mang. The Emperor led a life of luxury and excess with over a hundred wives and countless concubines but strangely to no offspring. It was during his reign that the Nguyen Dynasty fell out of independence and into French control.
To soothe his ill fortunes, the king decided to put his energy into something within his control – his tomb. His tomb was no doubt big. But the labourers who were forced into the act were unhappy. After years of hard toiling under poor conditions, they rebelled, only to be suppressed by the king, ending in a blood bath. Thereafter, the king renamed his tomb from Van Nien Co, or the Palace of Eternity, to Khiem Cung, the Palace of Modesty.
Unlike the tombs of other kings, Tu Duc has a royal theatre named Minh Khiem overlooking a lake.
The king might have been extra cautious with his body and afterlife treasures, as they were not found in the main tomb area. Rather, legend has it that the group which laid him to rest in a secret spot were immediately slaughtered after his burial upon their return. Thus no one knows where his body truly is.
As with the other tombs, this tomb is open every day from 8 AM to 5 PM. The ticket cost 150k dong. While it may be nearer to Hue City than the other two tombs (6 km), a motorbike or taxi is still needed for the commute.
Emperor Khai Dinh Tomb
The tomb of Emperor Khai Dinh is a sight to behold. The final architectural feat of the Nguyen Dynasty is a mesh of Vietnamese and Western art. You could tell that the king is eccentric from the visit. His tomb is unlike those of his ancestors.
Feng shui is paramount in such construction. As with the other tombs, it was built at the foot of a mountain by the river. However, unlike the others, Emperor Khai Dinh’s tomb has the smallest land space and is supposedly the most expensive to build. During his reign, the Emperor had the gall to increase taxes to fund this extravagance.
To get to the king’s eternal resting chamber, you’d have to climb over a hundred steps. Notice the dark concrete of the dragons, obelisks and pavilion that give the area a gothic feel.
However, once you’ve stepped inside the main palace – Thien Dinh Palace – an explosion of colours ensued. The interior is richly decorated from the floors to the ceiling with mosaic, gold and elaborate paintings. Nine black dragons swished around atop our heads on the ceilings. Our guide said the painter who did it hung himself upside down from the ceiling and painted with his foot.
Emperor Khai Dinh also had two life-sized bronze statues of him made – one seated on the throne in the main palace and another standing nearby.
The tomb is open every day from 8 AM to 5 PM, and tickets cost 150k dong. It is about 10 km away from Hue City.
Learn the Craft of Incense Sticks
We rounded up the guided tour with a visit to the incense village. Located about 7 km from Hue City, Thuy Xuan Incense Village existed since the Nguyen Dynasty for about 700 years. The village was responsible for supplying incense sticks to the royalties and commoners living around the area.
Incense sticks are made from two different materials – a thin bamboo stick known as the incense core, and an aromatic powder compound known as incense powder. The powder is then mixed with water to form a clay-like texture before it is evenly rolled over each individual incense core to form an incense stick.
A worker can make over 2000 incense sticks within a day, and there are a variety of fragrances from cinnamon to clove and jasmine. Prices start at 50k dong per bundle of sticks.
Savour Hue’s Delicacy
It’s not all just tombs and citadels for Hue. We enjoyed a variety of food during our short stay too.
I probably had two or three bowls of Bun Bo Hue, a beef noodle soup with vermicelli that tasted much more flavourful than the ubiquitous pho. Soupy meals are always my favourite.
However, my travelling partner doesn’t share the same preference as me, so he had Bun Thit Nuong, a dry vermicelli grilled pork salad with peanut sauce as dressing.
Another Hue speciality to try is Nem Lui, a lemongrass pork skewers dish that has to be eaten hot with rice paper and peanut sauce.
We also had the three different royal rice cakes of Hue for lunch during our tour: Banh Nam, a flat rice steamed dumpling, Banh Loc, a flat clear tapioca dumpling, and Banh Beo, steamed rice cakes topped with fried pork skin and shrimp.
I strongly recommend going for a guided food tour if you’re a foodie, to save yourself time finding the best noms around to sample.
Don’t forget to try Banh Khoai – another Hue speciality. Banh Khoai is like Banh Xeo, but smaller and thicker. It’s greasy and crispy from the deep frying and has to be eaten with salad and dipping sauce. I’m not a fan of fried food so this did not make an impression on me.
Food aside, as a fan of delicious coffee, we sampled Ca Phe Muoi, a special salted coffee in Hue. The salt enhances the coffee note and adds some umami and body to the overall experience. Having tried the caramelic egg coffee and coconut coffee of Hanoi, ca phe muoi is now my top favourite special coffee in Vietnam.
Some of the eateries we frequented can easily be spotted on Google’s map. Look for those with high reviews, and you shouldn’t go wrong. There are also many chic cafes to rest from the hot afternoon sun.
We also happened to stumble into a nondescript shop selling cheap Banh Mi while walking back to our hotel. We had no idea what we ordered – a mix of different cuts of meat – and some cold peanut and mung bean drinks. But the place looks popular amongst the locals, especially young Vietnamese.
While strolling down the main road of Hue, we had roadside Vietnamese bean dessert Che Ba Mau to beat the heat.
Soak in the night views of Cau Truong Tien Bridge
Take an evening stroll like the locals by the riverbank of Perfume River, and enjoy the colourful lights of the bridge and the banks.
Catch the sunset over Tam Giang Lagoon
Tam Giang Lagoon, the largest freshwater lagoon in Southeast Asia, is home to numerous wildlife. Take a half-day tour fishing for your seafood dinner over the picturesque sunset view of the lagoon.
Adventures beyond Hue
Take a day tour to the DMZ
If you have additional days to spare, set Hue as your base and explore the demilitarised zone of Vietnam. Numerous day tours are offering this trip that brings you to places like the bridge that the North and South, places along the Ho Chi Minh trail, and the Vinh Moc Tunnels.
We visited the DMZ as part of our journey from Phong Nha to Hue.
Travel to Phong Nha for caves
Phong Nha is an adventure town in Vietnam. The town is home to numerous caves, including the world’s biggest cave, Hang Son Doong.
Most day trips cover 1 – 2 caves like Paradise Cave, Phong Nha Cave and the Dark Cave.
If caves are your thing, head north from Hue for them. Doing it as a full-day tour is possible, but makes for a very long and tiring day.
Hike Bach Ma National Park
Enjoy a full-day forest soaking in Bach Ma National Park. The park is home to over 1400 species of plants and wildlife, and you may just happen to spot a couple of them while trekking to the beautiful Do Quyen Waterfall.
Enjoy serenity at Thuy Bieu Village
Take a half-day trip out to Thuy Bieu village for a change of pace. Thuy Bieu is known for its pomelo and grapefruits and was once the place where the Nguyen royals sourced their grapefruits.
You could still see remnants of the past dynasty such as traditional old houses and sacrificial arena for festivals.
Most tours to this village combine it with cycling and a Vietnamese cooking class.
Cross the Hai Van Pass towards the south
This isn’t so much of a return day trip from Hue, but more of a day tour from Hue to Danang or Hoi An. We signed up for a travel bus that brought us to several locations along the way from Hue to Hoi An, including Lang Co Bay, Hai Van Pass, and the Marble Mountains.
If time is scarce or if you’ve already been to Danang or Hoi An, some tours lead to the beautiful Lang Co Bay only.
Accommodations in Hue
Hue is such a delightful place to stay. Or could it be the boutique that I happened to pick turned out to have the most hospitable staff?
Budget backpackers. Budget solo backpackers can look out for Maily Hostel or Chi Homestay for their low-cost dorm beds. Both dorms are in good locations and within walking distance of most attractions within the city.
Affordable hotels. We stayed with the highly hospitable and convenient Soleil Boutique. Breakfast was included, and their complimentary coffee was delicious. 2-star Hue Nino Hotel and 3-star Jade Scene Hotel are two other good budget-y hotels.
Premium hotels. If you’re looking for something more premium, there’s the 4-star White Lotus Hue Hotel, 5-star Senna Hue Hotel and Indochine Palace, which are highly reviewed for their services and prime locations.
Conclusion
Hue is a great place to tour for their impressive ancient monuments and temples and delicious food. The city is convenient to travel around via Grab, and you can easily find a hotel to stay, some good cafes to chill, and a massage spa to relax. What I truly enjoy in Hue is their huge variety of delicious food with several being specialty only in Hue!
You could easily fill your days in Hue. We spent one and a half days in total within Hue and found that sufficient. Before Hue, it was a half day spent travelling from Phong Nha to Hue through the DMZ, and after Hue, another half day from Hue to Hoi An. If I had another day to spare, I might have joined the day tour to Bach Ma National Park.
All in all, promise me you’d try Bun Bo Hue and Ca Phe Muoi (on top of the tombs and citadel) before leaving!
Tips
- Bring sufficient hydration. It was so hot in Hue; we were drinking like dehydrated hippos.
- Have sunhat, sunscreen, and shades ready. Protect yourself from the sun during your walks!
- Carry a portable handheld electric fan or foldable Asian fans. Rest assured it will be very warm.
- Wear light and airy clothes. I usually wear those light elephant long pants that you can get from night markets since we were visiting tombs and temples. But for my trip to Hue, it was a long yellow cotton dress.
- Bookmark the stops beforehand. I like to do that so I’d know where all the good food or places of interest are.
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